estimated reading time: < 1 minDeepnest – open source nesting software

1. Import your file

2. Mark the largest part as your sheet, then hit start

3. Deepnest will continue to search for better solutions until you hit stop

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Normally you can’t read out the One Time Programming (OTP) memory in Microchip’s PIC MCUs that have code protection enabled, but an exploit has been found that gets around the copy protection in a range of PIC12, PIC14 and PIC16 MCUs.

This exploit is called PIC Burnout, and was developed by [Prehistoricman], with the cautious note that although this process is non-invasive, it does damage the memory contents. This means that you likely will only get one shot at dumping the OTP data before the memory is ‘burned out’.

The copy protection normally returns scrambled OTP data, with an example of PIC Burnout provided for the PIC16LC63A. After entering programming mode by setting the ICSP CLK pin high, excessively high programming voltage and duration is used repeatedly while checking that an area that normally reads as zero now reads back proper data. After this the OTP should be read out repeatedly to ensure that the scrambling has been circumvented.

The trick appears to be that while there’s over-voltage and similar protections on much of the Flash, this approach can still be used to affect the entire flash bit column. Suffice it to say that this method isn’t very kind to the Flash memory cells and can take hours to get a good dump. Even after this you need to know the exact scrambling method used, which is fortunately often documented by Microchip datasheets.

Thanks to [DjBiohazard] for the tip.

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Like many of us of a certain vintage, [Dillan Stock] at The Stock Pot is nostalgic for VHS tapes. It’s not so much the fuzzy picture or the tracking issues we miss, but the physical experience the physical medium brought to movie night. To recreate that magic, [Dillan] made a Modern VHS with NFC and ESPHome.

NFC tags are contained in handsomely designed 3D printed cartridges. You can tell [Dillan] put quite a bit of thought into the industrial design of these: there’s something delightfully Atari-like about them, but they have the correct aspect ratio to hold a miniaturized movie poster as a label. They’re designed to print in two pieces (no plastic wasted on supports) and snap together without glue. The printed reader is equally well thought out, with print-in-place springs for that all important analog clunk.

Electronically, the reader is almost as simple as the cartridge: it holds the NFC reader board and an ESP32. This is very similar to NFC-based audio players we’ve featured before, but it differs in the programming. Here, the ESP32 does nothing related directly to playing media: it is simply programmed to forward the NFC tag id to ESPHome. Based on that tag ID, ESPHome can turn on the TV, cue the appropriate media from a Plex server (or elsewhere), or do… well, literally anything. It’s ESPHome; if you wanted to make this and have a cartridge to start your coffee maker, you could.

If this tickles your nostalgia bone, [Dillan] has links to all the code, 3D files and even the label templates on his site. If you’re not sold yet, check out the video below and you might just change your mind. We’ve seen hacks from The Stock Pot before, everything from a rebuilt lamp to an elegant downspout and a universal remote.

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By now most floppy disks have been relegated to the dustbin of history, with a few exceptions for obscure industrial applications using legacy hardware and, of course, much of the world’s nuclear weapons arsenals. In fact, they’re so rare to see in the world anymore that many below a certain age don’t recognize the “save” symbol commonly used in application user interfaces. Without a use case, and with plenty of old floppies still laying around, [Rob] took a pile of them and built this Whack-a-Mole-style game.

The game has a number of floppy-disk-specific features compared to the arcade classic, though. First, there’s no mallet, so the player must push the floppy disks into the drive manually. Second, [Rob] went to somewhat exceptional lengths to customize the drives to that sometimes the disks jump out of the drive, forcing the player to grab them and put them back in to score points in the game. He did this without needing to install high-powered solenoids in the drives too. As for the game software itself, it all runs on an Amiga 600 and even includes a custom-made soundtrack for the 30-second game.

Getting the drives just right did take a number of prototypes, but after a few versions [Rob] has a working game that looks fun to play and is a clever use of aging hardware, not to mention the fact that it runs on a retro computer as well. Of course, for the true retro feel, you’ll want to make sure you find a CRT for the display somewhere, even though they’re getting harder to find now than old floppy disk drives.

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estimated reading time: < 1 minRate limit · GitHub

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DOE Code

SLAC Ultimate RTL Framework

Setup for large filesystems on github. git-lfs used for all binary files (example: .dcp)

$ git lfs install

An Introduction to SURF Presentation

IEEE RT 2024: SURF Workshop Presentation

Tutorial

Doxygen Homepage

Support Homepage

Bug Tracking

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The choice between hardware and software for electronics projects is generally a straighforward one. For simple tasks we might build dedicated hardware circuits out of discrete components for reliability and low cost, but for more complex tasks it could be easier and cheaper to program a general purpose microcontroller than to build the equivalent circuit in hardware. Every now and then we’ll see a project that blurs the lines between these two choices like this Pong game built entirely out of discrete components.

The project begins with a somewhat low-quality image of the original Pong circuit found online, which [atkelar] used to model the circuit in KiCad. Because the image wasn’t the highest resolution some guesses needed to be made, but it was enough to eventually produce a PCB and bill of material. From there [atkelar] could start piecing the circuit together, starting with the clock and eventually working through all the other components of the game, troubleshooting as he went. There were of course a few bugs to work out, as with any hardware project of this complexity, but in the end the bugs in the first PCB were found and used to create a second PCB with the issues solved.

With a wood, and metal case rounding out the build to showcase the circuit, nothing is left but to plug this in to a monitor and start playing this recreation of the first mass-produced video game ever made. Pong is a fairly popular build since, at least compared to modern games, it’s simple enough to build completely in hardware. This version from a few years ago goes even beyond [atkelar]’s integrated circuit design and instead built a recreation out of transistors and diodes directly.

Thanks to [irdc] for the tip!

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We see quite a lot of projects that recreate arcade game machines on a smaller scale, including most of the classics, like Pac-Man and Tempest. But some of the machines you find at arcades just don’t work at anything but their normal size. You would think that would be the case with those machines that test punching force by challenging players to hit a speed bag as hard as they can. However, you’d be wrong, because Guillaume Loquin found a way to do it and this adorable Flick-Out!! machine is the result.

The name is, of course, a reference to the Punch-Out!! series, which started as an arcade game back in 1984. It had conventional arcade controls, but Loquin’s Flick-Out!! is more like a miniaturized version of those punching game machines where you physically hit a target and receive a score based on the force. Because it is tiny, Flick-Out!! wouldn’t be suitable for a punch from an adult fist. Instead, the player flicks the little cherry-sized speed bag and gets a force score for that.

Like its full-sized cousins, Flick-Out!! has a mechanism to drop the speed bag down when the game starts — wouldn’t want someone punching it before paying! And after the flick, the score shows up on a full-color screen. That also displays nifty graphics to entice potential players. There are NeoPixel RGB LEDs for nice lighting effects and an audio board for sound effects. The entire thing is battery-powered and portable.

Loquin 3D-printed the machine’s enclosure, using multi-color printing to great effect. The most important component is a LilyGO T-Display S3, which is an ESP32-S3 development board with a built-in display that acts as the scoreboard. The ESP32 handles the game logic and monitors an FSR (force-sensitive resistor) to detect the flicking force. A mechanical latch, released by a push button, drops the speed bag to start gameplay. The sound effects play through a DFRobot DFPlayer Mini MP3 player.

If you want to build your own Flick-Out!! machine, Loquin published all of the necessary files and a nice tutorial over on GitHub. FSRs aren’t very accurate and so this isn’t any kind of reliable measure of flicking force, which might be a disappointment to the finger boxers out there. But it is good enough for a fun game and that’s what matters.

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Today in old school nostalgia our tipster [Clint Jay] wrote in to let us know about this rotary dial.

If you’re a young whippersnapper you might never have seen a rotary dial. These things were commonly used on telephones back in the day, and they were notoriously slow to use. The way they work is that they generate a number of pulses corresponding to the number you want to dial in. One pulse for 1, two pulses for 2, and so on, up to nine pulses for 9, then ten pulses for 0.

We see circuits like this here at Hackaday from time to time. In fact, commonly we see them implemented as USB keyboards, such as in Rotary Dial Becomes USB Keyboard and Rotary Dialer Becomes Numeric Keypad.

One thing that makes this particular project different from the ones we’ve seen before is that it doesn’t require a microcontroller. That said, our hacker [Mousa] shows us how to interface this dial with an Arduino, along with sample code, if that’s something you’d like to do. The schematic for the project shows how to connect the rotary dial (salvaged from an old telephone) to both a 7-segment display and a collection of ten LEDs.

The project write-up includes links to the PCB design files. The guts of the project are a 4017 decade counter and a 4026 7-segment display adapter. Good, honest, old school digital logic.

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Got some spare filament and looking to build a guitar you can truly call your own? [The 3D Print Zone] has created a modular 3D printable guitar system that lets you easily mix and match different components for the ultimate in customization.

The build is based around a central core, which combines the pickups, bridge, and neck into one solid unit. This is really the heart of the guitar, containing all the pieces that need to be in precise alignment to get those strings vibrating precisely in tune. The core then mounts to a printed outer body via mating slots and rails, which in the main demo is made to look like a Les Paul-style design. This outer body also hosts the volume, tone, and pickup controls. Output from the pickups travels to the controls in the outer body via a set of metallic contacts.

What’s cool about this build is that the sky really is the limit for your creativity. As the video below demonstrates, the main build looks like a Les Paul. But, armed with the right CAD software, you can really make a guitar that looks like whatever you want, while the 3D printer does all the hard work of making it a reality. The files to print the guitar, along with the pickups and other components, are available as kits—but there’s also nothing stopping you from working up your own printed guitar design from scratch, either.

We’ve seen some other great 3D printed guitars before, too.

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